Most of us know Sarajevo for one thing – the start of World War I… which, for a history buff like me, makes a visit to the Capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina exciting.
In this multicultural metropolis you can experience centuries of history, where Ottoman minarets stand alongside Austro-Hungarian architecture and several cultural sites.
I gotta admit, I absolutely fell in love with Sarajevo, and it’s my mission to convince you to visit the often overlooked city through this guide!
First off, a little history – because it’s important to understand why this city is so cool.
Why is it called Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country made up of two main parts.
- Bosnia is the bigger, northern part.
- Herzegovina is the smaller, southern part.
Prior to the 1870s, Bosnia and Herzegovina were part of the Ottoman Empire, united by geography and a common overlord, but culturally and (for the most part) politically different from each other. After that they were subsumed into Austria-Hungary for a time, then became part of Yugoslavia in the aftermath of World War I. After Independence from Yugoslavia and the Bosnian War in the 1990’s, both names were kept, but some from Herzegovina would not want to be called a Bosnian, and vice versa.
Republik Srpska
Interestingly (and confusingly), Bosnia and Herzegovina is a federation made up of 2 political entities. Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Republika Srpska. Srpska is strongly pro-russia and against the EU, whereas the federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina is generally considered pro-EU, having formally applied for membership in 2016 and being granted candidate status in December 2022.
Sarajevo is right on the border between the two areas but mainly “belongs” to the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. However East Sarajevo (Istočno Sarajevo), is a separate administrative city, located adjacent to Sarajevo, is part of Republika Srpska.
“So why isn’t Bosnia and Herzegovina just called Bosnia?” and the answer is: For the same reason the UK isn’t called just England.
(Though most of us just say / write Bosnia because it’s quicker…)
Sarajevo Map
Why is there so many serbs in Bosnia?
Serbs are one of the three main ethnic groups in Bosnia and Herzegovina, alongside Bosniaks (Muslims) who make up about 50% and Croats (Catholics) who make up about 15% of the population. Slavic peoples (including ancestors of modern Serbs), settled the Balkans in the 6th–7th centuries – so historically there have always been Serbs in Bosnia.
During the Austria-Hungarian rule many Serbs opposed foreign rule and supported a unification with Serbia. After World War I, Bosnia became part of “the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes” (later Yugoslavia). Serbs gained a strong political role in the new state, and many Serbs from other parts of the kingdom settled in Bosnia for administrative and military reasons. With the breakup of Yugoslavia, Bosnia declared independence in 1992, triggering a violent war. Many Serbs in Bosnia opposed independence and formed the Republika Srpska. During and after the war, ethnic cleansing and displacement caused major shifts in the population. Today Serbs make up about 30% of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s total population.
Religion in Sarajevo
Islam
The religious diversity in Sarajevo is quite inspiring, and the capital is often referred to as the “Jerusalem of Europe” for its mix of mosques, churches, and synagogues located near one another in the old town (Baščaršija). Despite the deep scars of the 1990s Bosnian War, Sarajevo continues to strive for religious tolerance and multiculturalism.
The largest religion in Sarajevo is islam. Sarajevo has over 100 mosques. Historically, the city saw the construction of numerous mosques during the Ottoman period. It might seem like a bit of an overkill of mosques for a city with less than 300k citizens – but, as my Guru walking tour guide explained, because of the city’s layout (a valley, with most locals living up on the hills) it was simply too much to ask villagers to walk down and back up the valley 5 times a day. Therefore more mosques were built closer to the locals and the rest is history
Xhamia ë Ali pashës (Ali Pasha Mosque)
Ali Pasha Mosque is one of several historic mosques that represent the city’s significant Islamic heritage. This mosque, along with the more famous Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, show the beautiful Ottoman architectural style that gives Sarajevo’s old town its distinctive Eastern character.
Eastern Orthodoxy
Mainly practiced by Serbs and represented by The Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos, which is the largest Serbian Orthodox Cathedral in Sarajevo.
Catholicism
The Sacred Heart Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova), built during Austro-Hungarian rule in 1889, is the main Catholic church. Outside the cathedral, visitors will find a statue of Pope John Paul II (who is a very popular figure throughout Sarajevo).
Judaism
A small but historically significant community in Bosnia. Read about the old jewish cemetery in Sarajevo here.
Historical Sights in Sarajevo
Each era of rule in Sarajevo has left its distinctive mark on the city. From Ottoman foundations to Austro-Hungarian grandeur, and from Yugoslav socialism to modern reconstruction.
Baščaršija (Sarajevo Old town)
Originally the old Ottoman bazaar that laid the foundations for the entire city in the 15th century.
Here you’re transported back in time with a maze of narrow cobblestone streets, traditional craftsmen, and Bosnian coffee inns.
Gazi Husrev-beg’s Bezistan
An indoor marketplace, built in the 1500s, which was once the epicenter of international trade where local merchants traded with merchants from Venice and Dubrovnik. The Bezistan (market) is named after the influential Ottoman governor Gazi Husrev-beg.
Unfortunately, the original character has been somewhat diminished by modern commercialization, but it’s still worth a quick visit.
Tašlihan Sarajevo
The Tašlihan represents the ruins of what was once part of a larger caravanserai complex connected to Gazi Husrev-beg’s Bezistan. These ancient roadside inns served as accommodation and coffee stops for merchants traveling the trade routes during the Ottoman period. While much of the original structure is in ruins, it offers insight into Sarajevo’s important role as a trading hub connecting East and West.
Vječna Vatra (Eternal Flame)
The Eternal Flame stands as a powerful memorial to the victims of World War II, located on Ferhadija Street as you transition from the old Ottoman quarter to the more modern Austro-Hungarian district. This continuously burning flame ensures that those who lost their lives are never forgotten.
Sarajevo City Hall
The City Hall, known locally as Vijećnica, is one of the most significant and emotionally charged buildings in the city. This stunning example of Austro-Hungarian architecture served as the National Library from 1949, housing over 155,000 rare books and manuscripts
Sadly, the library was burned down in 1992 during the war and an estimated two million books vanished.
The building reopened as a national monument in 2014, which you can visit today.
Opening hours: 9am – 5pm
Entry fee: 10 KM / €5 (audioguide 4KM / €2)
Sarajevo Museum 1878 – 1918
Located across from the Latin Bridge, this museum is dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian period in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The museum focuses primarily on the political and administrative changes during this era as well as briefly describing the assassination of Franz Ferdinand in 1914 (which triggered WWI).
Opening hours: 9am – 5pm (closed on sundays)
Entry fee: 5 KM / €2.5
About the assassination in Sarajevo
The event carries multiple, sometimes conflicting interpretations depending on identity, politics, and historical memory.
As stated previously Bosnia and Herzegovina had been occupied by Austria-Hungary since 1878 and many locals, especially Bosnian Serbs, viewed the Austro-Hungarian rule as oppressive colonial occupation.
Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, was visiting Sarajevo in June 1914, where he was shot by Gavrilo Princip, a Bosnian Serb and member of the secret nationalist group “Young Bosnia”. From a bosnian perspective Gavrilo Princip is often seen as a freedom fighter, a hero, and a symbol of anti-imperialist resistance. The “footprints” set into the pavement outside the museum marks the spot where Gavrilo Princip stood when he fired the shots towards the Archduke.
However some Bosniaks viewed the Austro-Hungarian Empire more favorably than the Serbian monarchy that followed, and don’t view Gavrilo Princip as a hero (Princip’s “footprints” were actually torn out during the 1990s war.)
Free walking tour in Sarajevo
I joined a free walking tour with Guru Walks (which I do in every city available) and learned so much about the views of Bosnians, especially when it comes to Gavrilo Princip as well as the current political environment. I highly recommend one of the tours below – or a tour with Merima that I did.
Quirky Things to See in Sarajevo
Tesla Pub Sarajevo
Decor is dedicated to Nikola Tesla, a Serbian American inventor and engineer, featuring a life‑size sculpture of Tesla himself at the entrance, dark industrial styling, and ceiling murals of his inventions.
Otherwise it’s a normal pub serving drinks and food to socialse over.
Papagajka Building in Sarajevo
One of Sarajevo’s more unusual attractions is a seven-story postmodern residential complex known for its multicolored façade (“Parrot Building”) and bold geometric design. It is one of the last buildings built in the Yugoslav era and is partly influenced by the brutalist style.
Many visitors (and locals) view the Papagajka as being oddly out of place, but the building represents an era of Sarajevo, just like many other buildings in the city telling a story.
There’s honestly not much to see as the complex has largely been neglected and vanalised… however people still live here, and it’s still cool to get a glimpse into the past through this odd building (when I say odd, I really mean ugly haha).
Abandoned Bobsleigh Track
One of Sarajevo’s most haunting yet fascinating attractions is the abandoned bobsleigh track from the 1984 Winter Olympics.
Covered in graffiti and slowly being reclaimed by nature, it’s yet another testament to the turbulent past of Bosnia.
I sadly didn’t make the hike up here, but many others do – read about the track here.
Sarajevo truly is a city like no other – a place where you can drink coffee in a 500-year-old bazaar, stand at the spot that changed world history, and witness a remarkable story of survival and renewal.